Ćevapčići, or ćevapi, are a dish made from minced meat, shaped into small rolls, and grilled. They are most commonly made from a mix of beef (70%) and lamb (30%). They are found in all regions of the former Yugoslavia that were once under Turkish rule. The types of meat used vary by region and often by the predominant religion in the area. The culture of top-quality ćevapi is particularly prominent in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Macedonia, and Southern Serbia, along the Banja Luka – Sarajevo – Novi Pazar – Niš – Vranje, and Leskovac – Skopje route.
The names ćevapčići, ćevapi, and ćevap originally come from Persian, where they referred to meat that was fried rather than grilled. The use of the same name in Arabic is likely derived from Aramaic, which in turn has roots in Akkadian (kabābu – something that is burned, roasted, or charred). In the 14th century, ćevap was mentioned as a synonym for the Persian word (Persian: tabahajah – a dish consisting of fried meat pieces). The term ćevap is more frequently found in Persian texts from the medieval period, referring to minced meat balls made from chicken or lamb.
Differences between Banja Luka, Travnik, Tuzla, and Sarajevo Ćevapi
Local patriots might say the differences are huge, but aficionados of good ćevapi rarely pass up the chance to try them in any of these four ćevap cities and usually have no complaints. However, the differences can be noticed at first glance. Banja Luka ćevapi differ from their Tuzla, Travnik, and Sarajevo counterparts in shape. While the latter three are prepared separately, Banja Luka ćevapi are made in sets of four, resembling a meat patty. They are served in a hot flatbread, with kajmak (a creamy dairy product) and coarsely chopped onions, with sour milk as the best accompanying drink. Hot peppers are also served.
Ordering sizes vary accordingly. In Travnik or Sarajevo, you might ask for “ten in half with onions,” which is equivalent to a small portion in Banja Luka, served in half a flatbread with two ćevapi patties. The sizes for Banja Luka ćevapi include the small portion, the medium with three patties in a whole flatbread, and the large with four patties in a whole flatbread. A special “syndical” portion includes two patties in a whole flatbread.
In Travnik, the flatbread is called somun. There are differences, but they are hard to describe—one must taste it. Travnik ćevapi also have a version of the syndical portion, known as the “school” or “student” portion, which consists of five ćevapi in a whole somun.
The recipe for authentic Banja Luka ćevapi is a secret passed down through generations. What is known is that the mixture requires 70% beef from the neck or shoulder and 30% lamb, no older than two years. Recently, a mix of beef and pork is also common. Essential parts of the recipe include garlic, salt, and pepper. The rest are secret additions and spices. There are ongoing debates about its origin. Some believe it was “invented” by the Đuzel family, who moved from Glamoč in 1920 and whose descendant, Mujo, was the most famous Banja Luka ćevapi master. Others believe that Banja Luka ćevapi existed before Mujo. Mujo’s ćevapi are central to many urban legends. According to one, Mujo was called in the middle of the night in 1978, when Tito was staying in Banja Luka, to prepare ćevapi for the Marshal at Hotel Bosnia.
Sarajevo ćevapi are made from just two ingredients—minced beef and salt. They are served in a somun with finely chopped purple (or regular black) onions and kajmak. Tuzla ćevapi include beef, lamb, and mutton, while authentic Travnik ćevapi require added minced veal and a special pita in which the ćevapi are “packed.”
As previously mentioned, but worth repeating (as ćevapi are a sensitive topic), ćevapi masters can also be found in Leskovac, Vranje, Niš, Novi Pazar, Skopje, and many parts of Croatia, suggesting that ćevapi might indeed be the undisputed kings of the rich Yugoslav table.
